2017 Jamsheed Madame Chard Chardonnay
A Yarra Valley and Upper Goulburn (Mansfield) Chardonnay from the cooler Coldstream sub-region off Spring Lane (Yarra Valley) and windy granite based Alpine vineyard (Mansfield).
Handpicked and whole bunch pressed with full solids to 800L (20% new) Rousseau Muids and older barrels, fermented with indigenous yeasts and left sur lees for 8 months before being bottled unfiltered and unfined. Minimal SO2 added.
"The chardonnay ferments naturally and then spends time in older oak barrels, on its lees, before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Just fermented chardonnay here. Nice styling. This punches way above its weight. Complex, mineral laden, savoury. That's three words that jostle with the ripe apple and faint citrus fruit characters. Some will find the yeasty, nutty characters a touch much in their chardonnay, but then there will be those who kowtow to this wild, quite rich and yet satisfying expression. It's arrogantly at the other end of what Australia's 'fine wine canon' for chardonnay is now (linear, racy, skeletal), and I love it for that."-93 points, Mike Bennie